Hola! Buenas Dias! Buenas Tardes!
Spring has to be one of the best times of year to visit Spain - the weather is absolutely perfect for discovering Spain’s most famous cities. Sun is shining, the weather is sweet, makes you want to move your dancing feet… and importantly it’s not too hot. Spanish cities in summer can feel like you may burst into flames.
We chose Sevilla, Spain, in the southern region of Andalusia, for our spring weekend city break. It had been 20 years since I last visited Andalusia and Seville, and I was excited to re-discover. I was not disappointed. The city was even more beautiful and enchanting than I remembered.
That exotic Spanish flare is very much alive in Sevilla. You instantly feel the grandness of Seville’s important history in its medieval architecture and stunning tropical gardens. Mixed with a soft, colourful, and almost whimsical freshness that invites you in, and gently whispers, slow down and stay a while.
Seville is a small city without a lot of hustle and bustle. It is completely walkable, or stroll-able, like an endless Sunday afternoon. I left Seville feeling as refreshed as after a spa weekend!
In this blog I share our 12-hour tour of Seville Travel Tips: what to see, where to stay, and where to eat. Plus all of the Med Style inspiration I am taking away from this beautiful city. Fully recommended.
Fast Facts about Seville
The fourth-largest city in Spain.
Its old town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Seville was once an island in the river Guadalquivir.
The city walls of Seville were first built in ancient times on the orders of Julius Caesar.
The Seville harbour is the only river port in Spain.
Seville was founded as the Roman city of Hispalis, and known as Ishbiliyah after the Islamic conquest in 711.
The first tribunal of the Spanish Inquisition was instituted in Seville in 1478.
The 16th century was Seville's 'golden age of development', after being the only port awarded the royal monopoly for trade with Spanish Americas.
The remains of Christopher Columbus are housed in a tomb in the Seville Cathedral.
In the 18th century, the Archive of the Indies was established in Seville, containing the documents of Spain's overseas empire, consolidated in a single repository.
More operas have been set in Seville than in any other city of Europe: Beethoven (Fidelio), Mozart (The Marriage of Figaro and Don Giovanni), Rossini (The Barber of Seville), Donizetti (La favorite), and Bizet (Carmen).
In 1929 the city hosted the Ibero-American Exposition, which created new public spaces such as the Parque de María Luisa and Plaza de España. It marked the modernisation of the city widening the mediaeval streets to allow for the movement of automobiles.
Seville is the warmest city in Continental Europe, with summer average high temperatures of above 35 °C (95 °F)[ and the hottest in Spain.
Med Style I Majestic Spanish Gardens
Parque de María Luisa - Free
Gardens of the Prado de San Sebastián - Free
Real Alcazar Gardens - €14.50
My favourite part of Seville has to be its beautiful gardens. The design of these gardens is extravagant, refined, and in my garden-loving view, pure genius. They are dense, mature, tropical gardens where the breeze is fresh and the mix of flora and fauna is absolutely breathtaking.
Gardens played a vital role in the settlement of Islamic Spain, providing a space for relaxation, and the illusion of paradise. I am completely inspired by the garden architecture of the trees and plants that create an oasis of shade and cool breeze amongst the urban landscape. A key take-away for staying cool in the heat of summer in the Mediterranean.
Seville is a garden city. Visiting in May is particularly special as you can see bursts of the beautiful purple canopies of its many Jacaranda trees throughout the city.
Parque de María Luisa - Free
The sprawling Parque de María Luisa (María Luisa Park) was designed by architect Aníbal González for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition. The park includes two major plazas, the Plaza de España and the Plaza de América, and several monuments and museums. The park is a magnificent showcase of Revival, Neo-Mudéjar and Neo-Renaissance landscape architecture, lavishly ornamented with colourful glazed tiles.
Gardens of the Prado de San Sebastián - Free
The more intimate gardens of the Prado de San Sebastián have replaced the former site of Seville’s Livestock Fair. Its design includes the use of ponds, fountains and small waterfalls, giving prominence to Islamic garden design. The gardens are enclosed lines of banana trees, and home to fifty plant species including some of my favourites: date palms (Phoenix canariensis), rosewood (Tipuana tipu), laurel (Ficus microcarpa), the jacaranda (Jacaranda mimosaefolia), bamboo (Phyllostachys aurea), bitter orange tree (Citrus aurantium var. amara) and yuccas (Yucca elephantipes).
Real Alcazar Gardens - €14.50
Alcázar courtyards housed some of the most grandiose gardens in the region, reflecting the wealth of the time. Inner courtyard gardens were kept from outside view, following Islamic architectural practices that disguised decorated private areas. The gardens are organised in a raised grid formation, with an irrigation system and formal walkways. The Islamic influence can be seen in the geometric and symmetrical design. A range of shrubs, trees, vegetables and flowers were grown in these gardens. The fruits could be cultivated and marketable while also supplying the garden with a pleasant fragrance and aesthetic beauty.
The fruit trees in the gardens of the Alcázar of Seville are reported to have introduced new, "exotic" fruits to Europe such as lemons, oranges, apricots, and peaches.
What to See I A 12-hour Tour
#1. Horse and Carriage tour of Seville’s old town - €45 (45min ride)
I like to start my city tours with a one hour taster tour to get the lay of the land of the city, and awaken my senses to the different neighbourhoods and must see sights that I will take more time to explore during my stay. Every city has one. A hop-on-hop-off bus, a historic tram, and in the Medieval city of Seville… horse and carriage!
You feel like King and Queen for a day in the horse and carriage. The slow pace of the transport allows for an excellent birds eye view of what to see in the city - and can get into pedestrian areas not accessible to cars. Our ride took us through Seville’s old town: A full view of the sprawling Plaza de España , through the Parque de Maria Luisa to the Plaza de Americas, around the Real Alcazar and the Cathedral, and finally along the Guadalquivir river past the Torre del Oro.
We picked up our beautiful white horse and buggy outside the entrance of the Plaza de España, however, you can find them outside most of Seville’s main attractions.
Tip: If you are a party of 4, make sure to check that there are actually proper seats facing front and back. Some of the buggies only have a bench on one side, which does not make for a comfortable ride through the cobble-stoned streets.
#2. Real Alcazar Palace €14.50
It is heaven on earth. I could have spent an entire day inside this castle, admiring the beautiful tiles, architecture, and gardens.
Seville’s Real Alcázar is a sprawling palace and garden complex which served as the city's center of power. The current palace complex was established in the 10th century as a governor's palace, then expanded in the 11th century when it became the palace of the Abbadid rulers. The Alcazar of Seville is admired for its new uses of its spaces, the lush gardens, and the endless water, gushing forth from every corner, masterfully channeled from the Guadalquivir river.
Each century, and each ruler, has left its mark on the palace. In the 1360s under Pedro I, constructed a new palace in Mudéjar style, with richly-decorated chambers and courtyards. Mudéjar style in architecture refers to decorative Islamic art styled motifs and patterning including calligraphy, intricate geometry, and vegetal forms. Classic Mudéjar elements include the horseshoe and multi-lobed arch, muqarna vaults, alfiz (molding around an arch), wooden roofing, fired bricks, glazed ceramic tiles, and ornamental stucco work. The Catholic Monarchs (15th & 16th centuries) brought in a Renaissance style, with elements of ancient Greek and Roman material culture such as: columns, arches, domes and niches. The extensive and paradise lost gardens were redesigned in this style with an outpouring of fountains and ponds, pavilions, arches and galleries.
The Alcázar of Seville is considered one of the greatest surviving examples of Mudéjar Gothic and Mudéjar Renaissance architecture - it has been used as a filming location for various productions, including Game of Thrones.
Alcázars reflect Islamic influence with their geometric design and the inward-looking style emphasizing seclusion and privacy - and even now, you can’t experience it without a ticket!
TIP: Book your tickets online in advance here - you will be given a specific time slot to plan your day around, and to make sure that you don’t miss out on this must see gem of Seville … To Note: The morning slots get booked up the quickest, so best to book these tickets at least month in advance if you want a morning slot.
After spending the morning in the paradise of the Real Alcazar, enjoy a leisurely lunch at one of Seville’s terraced restaurants.
In the afternoon, work off that lunch with an up close and personal exploration of the sights you found most intriguing from the horse and carriage tour.
#3. Plaza de España - Free
The Plaza was built as the centrepiece of the Expo of 1929, which took place in Maria Luisa park, as the Pabellon de Andalucia.
Plaza de España is a semi-circular brick building in Renaissance/neo-Moorish style, with a tower at either end (tall enough to be visible around the city). In front of the building, following the curve of its façade, is a 500-metre canal crossed by four bridges, and in the centre of it all is the Plaza itself. You can rent small boats to row in the canal - the Plaza is known as "the Venice of Seville".
All along the wall by the canal are 48 alcoves with benches, one for each province of Spain, each with a relevant tableau and map, all designed on colourful azulejos (painted ceramic tiles). The four bridges represent the four ancient kingdoms of Spain: Castille, Aragon, Navarre and Leon.
The Plaza has been used over the decades as a location for filming several movies, such as Star Wars and Lawrence of Arabia.
#4. Seville Cathedral
The Seville Cathedral, officially the Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, is considered the largest Gothic cathedral in the world and one of the largest cathedrals in the world.
It incorporates parts of the city's former main mosque that was built under the Almohads in the 12th century. The current building, and its massive Gothic structure was constructed in the 15th century (1401-1506, with additional reconstruction 1511-1519).
One of the city's most prominent landmarks is the cathedral's bell tower, the Giralda, formerly the minaret of the Almohad mosque. The minaret's main shaft is a little over 50 meters tall. The top of the tower is crowned by the Giraldillo, a cast bronze weather vane sculpture, from which the name "Giralda" is derived.
Seville Cathedral contains a number of important tombs, including one of the two claimed burial places of Christopher Columbus.
#5. River Boat Cruise - €15 - 1 hour
After visiting Seville’s must see sights, relax with a late afternoon, and eco-friendly, river boat cruise. Enjoy panoramic views of Seville while sailing down the Guadalquivir River. You can even enjoy an apero onboard - Pick up a drink at the onboard bar and listen to live commentary while passing the Torre del Oro, the Torre de Schindler, and Seville’s Triana neighbourhood.
The Torre del Oro is an Almohad defensive tower dating to 1220–1221. The tower was integrated into the city's defensive system and protected the city's harbour, along with another tower across the river. Between the bases of the two towers a chain could be raised to block ships and prevent entry into the port.
Start the trip from the Muelle de Nueva York dock.
#6. Flamenco Dinner Show - spectacular!
When in Spain, Flamenco!
On arrival to our hotel the friendly staff informed us that there would be a flamenco show during dinner in the hotel restaurant that night. We jumped at this serendipitous opportunity to see a Flamenco show live in an intimate setting while enjoying a beautiful meal.
It ended up being one of the highlights of our weekend. There were only about 10 tables in the restaurant, and everyone got a front row seat to a spectacular show. The food and service was also excellent at Azahar Restaurant.
After our Flamenco dinner show, there was still one place we wanted to see - the Metropol Parasol project - which we learned is an amazing experience at night. From Seville’s Medieval history, to spicy Flamenco, and now Seville’s newest modern architecture with a view…
The Metropol Parasol project, commonly known as Las Setas ('The Mushrooms'), was launched in 2004, and completed in 2011, to revitalise the Plaza de la Encarnación, the first known food market in the city of Seville. Constructed from crossed wooden beams, Las Setas is said to be the largest timber-framed structure in the world.
The Setas de Sevilla complex features 5 levels. A meandering walkway runs over the entire structure which allows for amazing views of the city until you reach its highest point, the Viewing Platform, spanning 360 degrees. The modern structure also contains a renewed Mercado de la Encarnación to sample Sevillian food, and a museum with the largest archaeological site in the city of Seville from the Roman era where remains from the 1st century are found.
At night the whole structure is lit up in different colours, and the night view across Seville was the perfect topper to our 12-hour tour.
Where to Stay I Boutique Chic Hotels
Scanning TabletHotels.com, I found an intriguing boutique hotel which was absolutely perfect for our weekend stay. The hotel was like a movie set. A beautifully renovated 18th century farmhouse in the middle of Seville’s old town. The hotel is organized around two central historic courtyards, where you can enjoy a leisurely coffee or apero in the private sun-filled outdoors. There is also a rooftop pool and terrace with more amazing views.
Where to Eat I Fav Restaurants
I always consult the Michelin Guide to find great restaurants in every European city. There is nothing worse than stopping at an un-vetted place because you are starving while exploring a city - and paying for a bad meal. Micheline Guide has yet to disappoint.
I was drawn to the beautiful courtyard setting of Lalola restaurant by Chef Javier Abascal - at the Hotel Palacio One Shot Conde de Torrejón, in the neighborhood of La Alameda, in the heart of Seville. The food was excellent. A sophisticated and creative take on Iberian cuisine,
2. Azahar
We found Azahar by chance. It was the restaurant of our hotel, Las Casas del Rey de Baeza. This is where we took in the Flamenco Dinner Show.
The meal was fantastic, modern Andalusian cuisine by chef Rafael Cantizano - and there was no extra charge for the bonus live Flamenco show.
Seville was the perfect weekend getaway.
Whether you are discovering Spain for the first time, or looking for a place to relax and rejuvenate, Seville is perfect in Spring!
I’m already planning to go back again to spend more time in the Real Alcazar, a little piece of heaven.
Share your favourite spots in Seville in the comments below!
Check out more of my Med Travel Guides here for more tours and tips :)
Hasta pronto Sevilla!
Jade
Lewon
Med
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